Saturday, December 20, 2008

The Last Morning - Sunrise


The last morning I was up early preparing to leave on the 9 a.m. ferry. I woke early at Iona and on this morning I guess I wanted to soak up as much of the last few hours as I could. From the window in the bathroom of the housing area, I looked out and saw the sunrising over the Isle of Mull. It was beyond a beautiful scene. The pictures here speak for themselves. I needn't say more. The week on Iona was a unique and special experience . Now I would head back to Glasgow and look forward to the next journey to Skye.

Last Day -- on Dun I

The last day on Iona a few of us hiked up to the top of Dun I. Dun I literally means "Hill of Iona." It is 332 ft. above sea level and the highest point on the Isle. Atop Dun I sits a stone cairn. What an amazing view from there. You can see all sides of the Isle from there...exhilarating. To the north you see the end of the Isle come to a narrow point extending into the strait. At the end is a very white sand beach called "white strand of monks." It was here on a Christmas Eve in 986 that Vikings rampaged and killed the abbot and 15 monks. History says that was the last of Viking raids on the Isle. Known as an Isle of peace, it has had its share of violence over the centuries.

It was extremely peaceful on the day I climbed atop Dun I. It was a fitting end to "top off" a powerful week on Iona.

Standing next to the cairn atop Dun I. You can see the "white stand of the monks" at the end of the Isle in the photo below.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Celtic Crosses

St. Martin's Cross has stood on the Isle for over 1000 years.

Celtic crosses were prevalent on Iona. The most prominent is the St. Martin's cross. It has stood on Iona for over 1000 years. It is carved from a single block of epediorite. Along with Biblical images is the Celtic pattern of weaving vines that symbolize the intertwining of heaven and earth, matter and spirit. There are remains of 5 ancient high crosses on Iona. A few others dot the island as memorials. They are reminders of the significant and sacred place that is Iona.


Two shots of the St. John's Cross standing in front of the Abbey




This cross along the road to the north end of the isle was erected in 1878 by the Duke of Argyll in memory of his wife. There was a long connection between the Argyll family and Iona. In 1693 the Argyll family took possession of much of the Isle including the Abbey which was in much ruin. In the 1800's, the eighth Duke of Argyll began restoration and later gave it over to a trust. He had two conditions - that is be restored to a place of worship and not a tourist museum and that it be a home for Christians of all denominations. Inside the Abbey is a monument to him and a tomb of his wife. Interesting for me in all this is that my hometown is Argyle, Wisconsin. The town is named after the Scottish Duke of Argyle (Argyll).

The Nunnery


On the shortcut walking path between the ferry landing and the Abbey sits the ruins of an Augustinian Nunnery built in the 13th century. The path runs though the grounds and the ruins. Amidst the remaining stone walls are patches of lawn used often as places to meditate or just relax in peace. Between rocks in the walls grow small ferns and a few small trailing flower vines. Imagine how they survive with just the moist air and the damp deteriorating mortar between rocks to gain a footing and some nutrients.

There seems to be a metaphor around every corner on Iona. In reading a bit about the Nunnery, it is noted that there has been interest at times to restore the Nunnery, but nothing ever transpires. Is it possible that places of women did not, or do not yet, receive the priority given to places of men, like the Abbey? A section from a small book on Iona pilgrimage point out that the Nunnery as is is a witness in itself. It suggests that the Nunnery symbolized that much of our community life, at least in Western society, lies in ruins; that struggles for equality between genders have a long way to go; and that cries of oppressed - women, children and men - still are heard loudly.

Amazing tiny ferns and plant grow between rocks on the Nunnery walls
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Amidst all the ruins are a few small gardens and colorful planters....creating a unique beauty of its own.


If you look close you'll see the lamb upon the rock through the Nunnery ruin, rock window casing. This was just such an interesting and ironic scene.








Monday, December 1, 2008

Water all around

Iona is a small isle with areas of beautiful sand beach and areas with rocky outcroppings. Maybe it's because I'm a Pisces, but I always long to be near water, not necessarily in it, but on it and by it. The waters surrounding Iona have the deepest shades of aqua. On the north end of the isle is a section of beach with pure white sand. On the south end of the isle is St. Columba Bay with stronger waves and rolled stones and gravel. Near the ferry landing small boats are moored making for some of the most picturesque scenes of Iona. Even on a grey day the ocean presents an eerie beauty. At Martyrs Bay just south of the pub the sand is pure white. It's a beautiful spot. But, as the name implies, it has a not so pleasant side. In 806 Viking invaders massacred 68 monks at this site. Water has such power. Celtic religion believed water was a dwelling place for divinities. Of course we know of all the references to water's importance in Christianity. Water sustains life, it is abundant, yet some in this world must walk miles each day just to obtain a sustaining supply for a day.

The ferry landing harbor with Iona Abbey just a short way up the isle.

Sunny afternoon at the ferry landing


Pure white sand at Martyrs Bay



Water every shade of aqua and blue




On the north end beaches you'll find strange looking, colorful outcroppings and sheep grazing on the ocean's edge

Even a grey day makes for a beautiful Scottish scene